Does anyone use a Sharps Long Range bullet in replica for 1000 yds shooting?  This bullet has a very long nose with only the last 0.6" of a 1.5" bullet being straight sided and the rest is tapered very slowly - almost imperceptably to the nose.  
 
Also, this bullet was shot in 16:1 alloy (probably because of it's long nose) and I'm curious if anyone uses an alloy that hard with this bullet or any other bullet in a muzzleloader.  
 
Thanks, (and thanks David for making this forum).
Brent
 

David, I know they work in a breechloader from direct experience.  I can see no reason why they won't work just as well in a muzzleloader.  There really isn't any difference from the perspective of the bullet.  I need to get out and try this myself but haven't had the time.
 
Brent

The only long nosed mold I have ( cheap Lee mold from odds & ends box, estate sale) proved unsatisfactory with pure lead bullets from my .451 volunteer, even at 100 yards. I'm pretty sure the nose was slumping based on the off centered  holes in the target. The first perforation made by the nose initially penetrating the paper would be off center in the larger, circular tear made by the rest of the bullet. Interestingly, the few that performed best had that initial perforation centered. I really didn't have any expectations of happiness from the trial, but if you never try, you won't know, and the mold was basically free.
 
 I cast a few more from what should be close to Lyman's #2 alloy, but I've not sized them down yet, and that may be too hard to work anyway. The mold is so hard to use with the way it misaligns and must be checked every time that it would almost be bad news if the bullets work well. Then I'd have to deal with that mold forever.
 
  Steve